In a large saucepan over a medium heat, warm the olive oil and gently sweat the onion, carrot, fennel and garlic for 4–5 minutes, without colouring.

Increase the heat to high, stir in the chopped fish bones, and continue to cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the chopped tomatoes, saffron and tomato purée and bouquet garni and sweat for a further 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine and bring to a vigorous boil. Pour in the water, add the Pernod if using, and bring back to a boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.

Allow to cool slightly. Remove the bouquet garni. Then blend the soup in the Kenwood Chef blender attachment, in batches if necessary, for 3 seconds only – to pulverise the fish bones and other flavourings.

Now pour the soup through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan, pressing with the back of a ladle to extract as much liquid as possible.

Reheat the soup, taste and correct the seasoning if required and divide the soup between four soup bowls. Garnish each serving with a generous drizzle of your best extra virgin olive oil and – remember, remember! – a large crusty baguette.